Letter from Vieques …
by Sheila Levin
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1-23-99
This letter will appear monthly with items of interest to readers
who know Vieques and those who are considering visiting. We welcome your suggestions and
observations.
Vieques, which once had a large French population, now has it’s own French
Restaurant. Located at the La Casa del Frances, El Frances, and open 7 days a week for
dinner is run by Charlotte Stringer and Francoise Feyneral. They were formally the owners
of Dix et Sept, a popular French bistro in New York. Their
chef, Elizabeth Santiago came with them to Vieques. Reservations are desirable, Tel # is
787-741-0717.
Also opening this month is The Crabwalk Caf, located next to Trade Winds.
Serving coffees, teas, special sandwiches and salads, it is a welcome addition to the
esperenza strip. Lyman Turkowski is the owner. They are open from 8a.m. to
"whenever" which sounds about right for our isla nena.
Residents are amazed at the rapidity of development of the Martineau Resort, a $60
million resort located near the airport on the North beach. The opening date of December
1999 looks to be a reality, which means American eagle will be flying by that time. What
changes this will visit upon the island remains to be seen.
Vieques clothing line…Both Neeva Gayle Hix and Barbara Baker have
designed special resort wear and are marketing their own designs. Barbara had a fashion
show recently at the Inn on the Blue Horizon featuring her "Barberitas."
Early morning rain, more than usual for winter, has made the island even more lush
and beautiful.
Millenium madness has begun…house and car rentals are underway for millenium
celebration.
The Vieques Business Organization, whose president is Burr owner of Hacienda
Tamarindo, has persuaded the PR Tourist Bureau to underwrite a generic Vieques brochure as
well as to feature Vieques in its own Public Relations efforts.
March, 1999
Unlike some of our sister islands, Vieques has never been known for it’s
shopping potential. That is changing. It is possible now to enjoy local artists, resort
wear, pottery and art. Siddhia Hutchinson, who is internationally renowned, has a new line
of her luscious china and accessories called "Trade Winds." Her studio, located
above the Ferry slip, carries a full line of her china and art. The telephone number is
741-8780. Hurry up to see the splendid pottery of Jan Surface (741 4138) located across
the street from the entrance to Camp Garcia. Jan and her massage-therapist husband Jeffrey
Sears are leaving in May for Hawaii. Don’t leave without a visit to the Fort and the
Historical Trust, both of which have excellent gift shops. Helen’s boutique, The
Mall, at the Casa has a variety of colorful resort wear, as does Kim’s Kabin on the
Esperenza strip. Peter not only sells Java Wrap and other Caribbean resort wear but also
carries a line of local crafts. Bali Lama, with its two shops, in Isabella and in
Esperenza, has clothes for everyday as well as for evening. Boutiques at the Inn on the
Blue Horizon, Crow’s Nest, and Trade Winds are also on the don’t-miss list for
shoppers.
For a sampling of the exceptional work of local potters, stop by to see Myrna and
Jennie at the shop in back of the Vieques Times office. If you’re lucky, you may see
them at work. Myrna started it all years ago with her vision of learning and teaching
pottery.
People often ask where to go for Puerto Rican food. Visit the charming Naomi at la
Central. If you call ahead, 741-0106 She will have your Empanadas ready for the beach.
Richard’s in town gathers a crowd because the food is terrific. And don’t forget
Clarky's for bar-B-cue. Mucho Gusto serves both dinner and lunch in Isabella Segunda and
Taverna Espanola is the place for Spanish food. If you’re around Sun Bay on Sunday,
don’t miss the food stands across the street.
Our travelling French restaurant has now set up at Duffys. Vieques now can boast
two Italian restaurants, our old favorite at Ernestos and a new chef at Amapola, Roberto
di Salerno.
April 1999
The long, fragrant days of summer in Vieques are a secret to be shared with
visitors who understand that this season has all of the pleasures of winter plus some
others that winter tourists never get to experience. Instead of sweltering in the city or
air conditioning yourself into oblivion, try the sea breezes, which cool the air and make
for a truly restful sleep.
The temperature never varies between winter and summer by more than 10 degrees; the water
is warmer, soothing to aching joints and distressed souls. Take a float and soak for hours
in the ocean; try swimming, really swimming for the kind of all over exercise that costs
thousands in the big city.
Enjoy the more leisurely pace of our fine restaurants, no waiting for a table, the wait
staff as relaxed as you are. Walk.
The Flamboyant trees are in bloom, as well as other flowers, which only bloom in summer.
The island is punctuated by an exquisite parade of blooming trees and flowers.
There is something brighter about Vieques in the summer, even the light at dusk, that
magical iridescent light which is a painter's dream, seems to linger a little longer.
Many homes and guesthouses reduce their prices slightly for the summer, and the boutiques
have sales. It's a terrific time to indulge your fantasy about buying some property, to
learn to dive, to fish, to check out our bee industry or do some bird watching. Bring your
camera, you'll find pictures you will frame when you return home. Bring a notebook, keep a
journal or write some poetry. Discard pedestrian expectations shuck off the routine.
You'll be surprised at the renewal of body and soul.
Don't forget to visit Jan Surface, one of our best potters, who, along with her husband
Jeff Sears and daughter Isabelle, will soon be moving to Hawaii. Jan's studio is across
the street from the entrance to the Garcia gate. Her telephone number is 741 4138. She
will be selling almost all of her inventory before they leave in late April. Best of luck
to these terrific folks!
May 1999
The island is more crowded than usual at this time of year with
visitors. The season seems to extend longer each year as people realize the delights of
Vieques after Easter.
Cooperation between the North American residents and the local population is evident in
many ways. The fine work done by the Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust has
prevented pollution of our unique Phospherent Bay, provided computers for young people and
offers a fascinating museum at its offices in Esperenza. A magnificent butterfly
collection is presently featured as well as a sea shell exhibit lovingly collected by Liz
Courtney. The William and Marian Pavilion community Center for community activities serve
as the site for the computer program available to all island residents. Touch tanks with
live displays of all kinds of sea animals including corals, sponges and exotic fish from
our shores are being installed sure to delight children and adults alike. Items sold in
the Trust's gift shop help support the work of the Trust. There is also a gallery for
local artists. One extremely popular evening is Carnivale, which features a mask
competition.
Responsibilities for running the Trust are shared equally between local residents and
North American residents. Membership is $30 for families and $17 for single individuals
entitling members to attend the annual meeting, receive the newsletter and share in the
satisfaction of conservation work. The Trust is located on the strip in Esperenza,
telephone number is 741 8850. There is no charge for admission.
The Humane Society is active year round. With it's new building, and volunteer help, the
animal population of Vieques is well cared for. It's low cost programs for spaying and
other medical assistance for animals is one of the most popular in Vieques. The animals
treated range from lizards to horses and everything in between. There is a great need for
more volunteers. No training is required. Tasks include walking dogs, handling cats and
socializing animals, which need human contact. People who have or see an injured animal
can call Penny Miller or David Donovan at 741 0209.
Jelly, a dog, was recently found at the dump, tied up with barbed wire and burlap,
abandoned and terrified. Jelly has now been restored to good health and good humor. Dogs
and cats are available for adoption. A small charge of $25. 00 entitles the animal to
rabies and distemper shots as well as spaying and neutering. Arrangements for transporting
animals require only a health certificate, signed by a Veterinarian (on Fridays). The
airlines are extremely cooperative about transporting animals back to the United States
and Europe. Donations can be sent to the Humane Society, Box 1399, Vieques, PR. 00765 and
entitles the donor to the Humane Society Newsletter.
A dance recital by the Dance Company of Puerto Rico was well-attended and first rate. We
look forward to seeing more of music and dance groups. If you are visiting the island
check with your guest house owner to see if any special events are planned. Perhaps you'll
be lucky and catch a dance or music group.
What do butter/rum Lobster, spring Rolls, Veal Parmagiana and Thai Sweet Corn Cakes with
spicy dipping sauce have in common? No, not New England, Chinatown, Italy or Thailand. But
right here in Vieques. Thanks to David Donovan, the large Lobsters at the Trade Winds (741
8666) are meaty and flavorful; Michael Glatz offers a sensational Spring Roll at the Inn
on the Blue Horizon (741 3318), Chasti Connelly wonders with his Veal Parmaginia, and
beautiful Monica Chitnis delivers an authentic and delicious Thai Corn Cake at Cafe Media
Luna in Isabella (741 2594.)
Our deepest condolences go out to the family and friends of David Sines Rodriquez who was
killed this month in a tragic accident as well as to former resident Matthew Townsend
whose sister was a victim of the school shooting in Colorado.
We are happy to report that Ernesto Troi, formerly the chef at the Crow's Nest is doing
well after recent surgery.
The lazy days of summer are upon us; the pace is slower, the water warmer, the trade winds
redolent with jasmine. Vieques is on the verge of its summer blooming. Soon mangos and
flamboyant will offer the sweet tastes and sights of our special summer season.
Webmaster's Note * Sheila has many hats and is Co-owner of Crow's Nest Realty with Liz
O'Dell.