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May 2007  

After two years of doing nothing but running flawlessly every day, the Evinrude outboard on my Maverick flats boat finally developed a problem, a fouled fuel injector in its bottom cylinder. Back in Key West, where I bought the engine, this would have been a one-day fix. Of course, Vieques is different. Like all new computerized wonder-motors, a 2006 E-Tec needs to be plugged into a laptop by a trained Evinrude technician before any work can be done. And guess what we don’t have here on Vieques.

To get myself and my boat to the San Juan service center, something that used to be within shouting distance up in the Keys, I had to travel an hour and a half by cargo ferry, an hour by Jeep, and finally back home by a thirty minute airplane flight. When the repairs, which are still covered by warranty, are done in a few days, I’ll repeat the process in reverse. Throw in the lost charters this week and the cost really adds up.

I’ve written about this situation before, and how the negatives of being a charter captain on Vieques are always outweighed by the positives in the end. This experience has been no exception. So while my beloved Maverick is down for the time being, the situation has managed to reunite me with an old friend.

Last week I saw an online classified by someone moving back to the States and selling a canoe. The price was more than right so I ran over to see it. It was a rugged, seventeen foot Old Town model, the same kind I once had up in the Keys over a decade ago. I grabbed it right away and within half an hour had my wife and dog paddling up and down Gringo Beach. I had forgotten everything that’s great about canoes and I’m kicking myself for going so long without one.

I remembered a day several years back, paddling in the shallows off the Key West airport, when my girlfriend at the time hooked a monstrous barracuda on a six pound spinning rod. This was a really big fish and it ran for a solid twenty minutes. She complained right away that her arms were tired, but I refused to take the rod since I was convinced she had a world record. According to the rules, only one angler can handle the tackle during the fight. If I touched the rod, it wouldn’t count. After an hour of being dragged around in the canoe, we landed the nearly five-foot cuda and weighed it on a hand scale. It was forty-one pounds, huge but not a world record. The girlfriend was gone a short time later, but I held on to the canoe for another year. It got me on the water with all my gear, never needed gas, and was good exercise, too.

The current canoe fits perfectly on top of my Jeep Wrangler and on the day after I bought it, it filled in perfectly for my ailing Maverick. Canoes after all, were the original flats boats.

My charter that day was a great guy who I really didn’t want to disappoint. Steve Stewart was a fly fisherman from the Florida’s east coast who was also celebrating his 50th birthday. His entire vacation was a surprise from his girlfriend and she and I planned his fishing trip months ago.

Click image to enlarge

Florida angler Steve Stewart
with a baby tarpon caught on fly
in one of our landlocked salt ponds.

By paddling a canoe, Steve and I weren’t going to make the eight mile run to the best bonefish flats on Vieques, but we could easily float into one of the many salt ponds on the island’s south side. These serve as a nursery for our local tarpon and snook population and most are impossible to access with a power boat. The first one we hit that morning was full of rolling fish and as I was still messing with the canoe near the Jeep, I handed Steve a fly rod so he could make a few practice casts from shore. When his first throw hit the water, the small shrimp pattern was instantly whacked by a two pound tarpon. One cast, one fish. Why can’t it always be like that, I thought. We were clearly in for a good day.

After two hours with Steve casting from the canoe’s front seat, we landed four tarpon and jumped nearly a dozen more. An avid birder, Steve also pointed out every species that flew or waded past us, including a rare warbler that isn’t common to this area. We would have never seen any of this from my Maverick.

Since that morning, I’ve used the canoe on almost half a dozen other “No-Motor” charters and have caught baby tarpon and snook on every one of them. Of course I can’t wait to (hopefully) get my 90 horsepower flats boat back this week and start running at 40 mph again. Until then, my new/old canoe has been a perfect connection with the way this sport started. It’s my chance to pretend I’m an Everglades guide from the early 1900’s down here in 2007 Vieques. Only I don’t have any alligators to worry about.

Capt. Gregg McKee, WildFly Charters

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