The Enchanted Isles Travel Information
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Enchanted
Isles Vieques Island |
Back in March, we urged you to take a trip to savor
San Juan, Puerto Rico. This month, we’re taking it a step farther – for
just a couple hours and dollars more (literally!), you can be lounging on a
mile-long strip of deserted white sand beach on Puerto Ricos’s ‘little
sister’ island of Vieques.
Although mostly known for its use as a bombing range by the
US Navy, Vieques has been sailor-free since 2003, and is now home to the
largest wildlife refuge in the Caribbean. Translation - no big resorts, no
golf courses, no (okay, few) tourists - just you and some wild horses. Oh,
and the world’s brightest bioluminescent bay.
There are many ways to feel at one with nature in Vieques.
You can hike, bike, or ride the trails both in and outside of the refuge,
some of which lead to ancient Taino Indian burial grounds or sugar
plantation ruins. You can snorkel or scuba dive next to a hundred year old
leatherback turtle, a school of squid or a harmless lemon shark. You can
swim around the 'cayos' - small, mini-islands off the southern coast - or
kayak through tunnels of red mangroves.
And let's not forget the island's diverse array of beaches:
some long and skinny stretches of white sand, perfect for morning walks,
others peppered with volcanic rock, housing shallow caves and mini cliffs
for hiking and jumping. But the most spectacular sight the island has to
offer is its bioluminescent bay; a protected body of water which glows when
you swim through it at night (due to a seriously high concentration of
seriously tiny microscopic organisms called dinoflagellates). Imagine
swimming in the stars as you look up at them, and you'll have an idea of
what it's like to visit the bay.
The island's charms don't stop with the outdoors, however.
Vieques has many delicious (and cheap) food choices, and an active but
laid-back nightlife scene. Dive-bar lovers and music fans will feel at home
belting out a song or two at one of the island's weekly
karaoke nights, or dancing to a live steel drum band.
And luckily for you, jauntsetters, the island's high season
is about to end - which means even less tourist traffic, as well as lower
airfare and hotel rates. So read on for our tips on how to get yourself
there, where to stay, and which beaches to visit.
Salud!*
your jauntsetter team
* Translation: literally "health" in Spanish, but on Vieques
this word is a common toast, blessing, or way of saying goodbye.
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Trip Details
When to Go
While high season is usually from mid-November through the
end of April, we like the island better during the off-season, in spring and
summer, when the stress is off. Rates are lower, tourists more scarce, and
the sun gets nice and hot. Plus, the locals have more time to play, which
means lots of street and beach parties, live music, and general revelry
culminating in Patronales, a festival held the third weekend in July that
brings big name bands and a ton of families over from the main island for 24
hours of fun (and lots of bili, a local concoction made by
fermenting quenepas, a local fruit, in white rum).
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Length of Stay
Some people come to Vieques for just a day during their
vacation in Puerto Rico - it's doable, but to really get to know the island
and take advantage of all it has to offer, we suggest at least a long
weekend, if not a week (or more). At least one night is mandatory, in order
to see the bay (tours stop around the full moon, which makes the glow much
harder to see - plan accordingly).
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Getting There
To Puerto Rico: Nonstop
flights from New York to San Juan run a little more than $200 during the
off-season. We found some fares on
Continental (departing Newark) for weekend travel in May for just $232,
all fees and taxes included. Search on Kayak
for the best price.
From San Juan to Vieques: Once
you arrive at San Juan International, you can either take a
puddle jumper
flight, which will run you around 90 dollars one way and get you there
in around 20 minutes, or hop in a publico (cab) to the ferry dock in Fajardo.
The cab ride will take around an hour and could run you
anywhere from 15-60 dollars, but it's only 2 dollars for the ferry (one
way), and just a little over an hour to the island (click
here for more info).
Both options are great fun and very different ways to see the
island - if you can afford it, we suggest ferrying over and flying back for
the full experience!
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Getting Around
Once you've made it to the island, you can rent a little
'island car' for from $40 to $80 a day. These vehicles are usually old,
beat-up Suzukis, many of them stick, so get ready for some bumpy rides.
Make sure your glove compartment has a can of fix-a-flat, which can be a
lifesaver if your tire caputs on a remote stretch of beach. If you'd rather
not drive, publicos can be called to take you to and from most hotels,
restaurants, and the closer beaches. Bike and scooter rental are also
popular, and of course, walking - but leave the hitchhiking to the locals.
Click here for a list of local car
rental agencies, and call around for the best price.
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Where to Stay
Our #1 (and Midrange) Pick:
Hix Island
House
This beautiful eco-hotel, built by revolutionary
architect John Hix, sits on 13 acres of untouched land and has been featured
everywhere from Travel + Leisure to Esquire and the Times.
Simple concrete structures combine indoor and outdoor living with open air
terraces and windows, outside showers, and minimal clutter (save for the
mosquito nets over the beds). Even the infinity-edged pool gives the
illusion of flowing into the natural landscape. The refrigerators are
stocked daily with local breakfast foods, and massages, yoga, and meditation
classes can be scheduled for you at any time.
Hix knows how to pamper mother nature, too; solar panels
contribute to hot water and electricity, and cisterns collect rainwater for
showers and irrigation for the the guava, papaya, and banana trees on the
property. Because the hotel is
so minimalist the
absence of traditional hotel services might put some travelers off. However,
if you don't mind a lack of 24 hour room service or a personal concierge,
you're in for lots of privacy, a laid back feel, and a truly relaxing
getaway at the Hix House.
Summer rates start on May 1st and range from $175 to $255.
For more info on rates and booking,
click here.
Our Budget Pick:
Banana's Guesthouse
Banana's Guesthouse, beach bar and grill is located on the
malecon in Esperanza, a walkway which separates town from the beach. You
can't get more centrally located; the few shops, restaurants and bars that
make up this small area are also along the malecon on either side of you,
and in front of you is the Caribbean Sea. All publicos pass by the
Guesthouse, and it's nicknamed 'the island meeting place'.
While
Duffy's
(next door) serves better food and stronger drinks, the oasis of quiet once
you walk through the restaurant into the guesthouse is something only
Bananas can offer. Minimally decorated rooms open onto a walkway leading to
the guest patio, a lush garden complete with hammocks. The office provides
complimentary coffee in the mornings and Banana's friendly employees will be
happy to help you arrange tours and activities.
Rooms range from $70 to $100.
Click here for
more details on booking and rates.
Our Splurge Pick: Hacienda
Tamarindo
Perched on a hill just high enough to catch the trade wind
breezes, and with a stunning 180 degree view of the Caribbean, Hacienda
Tamarindo is the best spot to be, from sunrise to sunset. This 16-room inn
is beautifully decorated; each room is originally designed and filled with a
unique accumulation of art and antiques. But perhaps the most fascinating
thing about this intimate-feeling hotel is the ancient Tamarind tree that
grows three stories through the center of the building - the owners couldn't
bear to cut it down, so they built around it!
Amenities include a tempting fresh water pool, a fully
stocked honor bar, and boxed beach lunches upon request. Most rooms have AC,
and all have hair dryers, beach chairs and individualized beverage coolers
you can bring on your day trips. A delicious and generous breakfast is
included daily with your stay. For a true splurge, rent the inn's luxurious
private villa, which features its own private outdoor dining room, full
kitchen, two bathrooms and porch.
Summer
rates start on May 6th and rage from $125 to $275.
Click here to book.
**This just in! Hacienda Tarmarindo has just offered an
upgrade for any reader who reserves a room from now until December 15, 2009.
Upgrades will be given upon booking based upon availability during your
stay. Just make sure to mention "jauntsetter" when you make your
reservation.**
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To Do
For ideas on how to keep yourself busy, we've compiled a list
of fun activities below. For more great insider tips on the best local
spots, check our blog for
upcoming posts throughout the week.
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Vieques,
What's Happenin'! a column by Janie Chadwick |
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