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Hi everyone,

Happy New Year!!!!

So sorry that this is late, it has been hard to sit down and get this written so I apologize. Unfortunately I have not been to Vieques since November but keep in touch with several people who keep me up to date. Also my dear friend Richard arrived last night so he will help me with What’s Happenin’ on the island.

As usual the island was very busy for the holidays, rental cars were all taken, less “personal space” at the beaches, harder to get reservations at restaurants and no parking in town. Also the roads in downtown Isabel are still torn up from construction and are very ruddy and muddy when wet. They have closed some of the roads so one-way streets are now two-way streets but not marked as such. They are trying to update the island and put utility lines underground but it seems like they are doing things in stages rather than taking care of everything while the road is torn up – go figure. So people are grumbling about the traffic, the mud and lack of parking. Well considering that Vieques was written up as one of the best travel destinations in several major newspapers and magazines, it is going to be extra crowded this winter and the island still is not ready for “prime time” so…………unfortunately to some it is just not living up to their expectations. For the adventure traveler though, the island is still kind of sleepy, many guest houses don’t have television or phones in the rooms and there are lots of dirt roads to explore. When you go with the right attitude and no expectations, the island has a wonderful energy about it and will draw you back time and time again. I was one of those travelers that the island seduced into moving there, but I had been there over a dozen times and had family there so I knew just what I was getting myself into. Also 10 years ago the island was much different than it is now, it was not written up in any travel magazines, the Navy was still there, you knew every “gringo” on the island and there was still parking downtown! Oh well nothing stays the same!

I understand that “Roy’s” is quickly becoming a favorite place to hang on the island. The owners have taken the old “Venetian Mansion” as it was known, and turned it into a coffee shop, bar and guest house. They are located downtown in Isabel and are across the street from the Vieques Air Link office building They open at 7am and often several local expats are hanging there, enjoying coffee and bagels and utilizing the wireless internet access. I imagine that I am going to turn this into my indoor/outdoor office if the reports are correct! Unfortunately I can’t enjoy the coffee or beverages but hopefully they will allow me to bring my Penta water in. I am so looking forward to my visit the middle of the month so that I can see all that they have done to the place.

I hear that restaurants did record numbers this holiday season – and some restaurants handled it well, others just were not quite up to speed. Keep in mind that as we have become the “in” spot, it has increased rents and made it nearly impossible for “winter staff” to venture down and find affordable housing and transportation. Those who do (we get some regulars!) make it down though to join those who work year round—all are doing an admirable job. Many of the restaurants get much of their food supplies from the main island, so if the ferry system is not running efficiently or the planes are filled with added cargo, the restaurants can run out of menu items. When you go to the grocery stores you will find that the supplies are dwindling of quality produce, meats and even frozen goods. The grocery stores and the hardware stores make up probably 50% (maybe more) of the available cargo space each trip so just you can imagine what a cancellation can mean. Much of the extra cargo space is used by the various construction companies to get building supplies to Vieques. Keep in mind that the number of cargo trips has not really changed in the past 10 years. The newer ferries only handle a few additional vehicles compared to the older ones also, so with all the growth that the island is experiencing, infrastructure has not improved in comparison.

Rental cars are a priority for enjoying Vieques but at this time of year they can be hard to come by. Cars are expensive in PR and parts and really good mechanics are hard to come by in Vieques. We joke about some of the “rent a wrecks” that are used by the rental agencies but with the way they are driven it is no wonder that transmissions are slipping and shocks are nonexistent! First rule to remember, just because it has 4 wheel drive does not mean it will go everywhere. Do not drive vehicles on the beaches, do not drive through big mud puddles unless you are absolutely sure how deep they are and what you will find further down the road. If there has been a lot of rain while you are there, then ask a local if they would go driving down all the dirt roads. A good friend of mine has pulled 2 big vehicles out of a 3-4 foot deep mud puddle in the past year, and it was not fun for the people who got stuck in it. Also keep in mind that cell phone reception is not always reliable way out on the beaches so if you do experience trouble help is not always a phone call away. We all want you to have a good experience on the island and want you to be safe, but we want you to be careful and also to keep in mind that the rental car that you are driving is rented for the next 90 days with little time set aside for maintenance. Oh and for those that are thinking of renting a car on the main island and using the ferry system to get it to and from Vieques – this is not a good idea. The majority of the rental agencies do not allow the cars to go on the ferry, however, they do not consider that anyone wants to so there are no signs telling you that. Should you experience mechanical problems on Vieques, you are responsible for getting the vehicle repaired (no easy task believe me) because the rental agencies do not have service people on Vieques. The ferry is booked often times 6-8 weeks in advance and you do not want to rely on standby to try and get a vehicle between the islands. It really is just not worth trying to rent on the main island of PR for a trip to Vieques. And when you realize how businesses and residents depend on the ferry service for their livelihood you understand why space is so precious for those of us that live on Vieques. Down the road, when there are larger ferries and more trips things will change and then it might be okay to rent on the main island (if rental agencies allow it) but for now we just do not recommend it. Oh and by the way, make sure you have a can of Fix-a-Flat in the car at all times, this can really be a lifesaver!

Reports of water outages this year so far have been very limited compared to last year – YEA!!!! But that does not mean that things will stay that way. Please conserve water as much as possible and it never hurts to have a couple of gallons of water set aside just in case. If you are renting a house you may want to see if the house has a cistern and find out how to use it if it does. Many of the hotels/guest houses do have cisterns but if they are using them, again it is important to conserve water. Water is a precious resource, especially in the Caribbean, so please be respectful that from January through April, occupancy rates in PR are running at a very high percentage so the amount of water consumed is incredible. This typically is not a rainy season for us so we really need to think about how we are using water. We all appreciate your sensitivity to this issue.

So if you really want to enjoy your visit to Vieques remember to make dinner and BioBay reservations early so that you are guaranteed a space when and where you want to be. Explore the island safely, be careful of what valuables you carry with you and keep an eye on your things when at the beach. Only carry what you really need when you venture out to explore our gorgeous island. Bring a few books or other forms of entertainment (Sudoku or crossword puzzles), there is little to do on Vieques except relax and unwind. Most guest rooms on the island do not have tvs, so check and see if yours does if this is important to you. If traveling with children and renting a house, find out if there is a vcr/dvd available so you can bring a few movies. There are rental places on the island but most are only open for a few hours late afternoon to early evening. If a tv is available, it does not mean that they have satellite, so you may be limited to a few stations in Spanish. If you need a lot of outside stimulation then make sure you ask about tv/satellite when you are booking a room or house. Everyone really does want you to have a wonderful time but it is almost impossible for the service industry to grow and improve as quickly as the tourist industry is exploding and overwhelming the island.

The calendar is below, it is limited this month. Since I will be back on the island next week and taking on more responsibility with the paper it will be a working visit home, and will provide me the opportunity to check out some of the new places. For those interested in my health, it continues to be great considering! I am now in my 5th cycle of chemo and should be done with it the 6th of February. The last CT Scan looked great. lots more shrinking cancer or no cancer, so I will meet with a radiation oncologist early in February and we will discuss that treatment. I am feeling wonderful considering where I am in my chemotherapy. I am so fortunate to be getting through this with little difficulty so far. It was wonderful to spend the holidays with family but I also really missed spending it with my friends on the island. I am so looking forward to being back there full time, hopefully in a few short months. So if you see me around between the 14th-21st (I may be the only totally bald woman you see) please say hello and tell me what you think of our paradise.

Thanks for reading and have a great visit!
 
Judy

PS: If there is anything you would like to see in the newsletter or have any feedback please email Ask Judy. Thanks.  askjudy@enchanted-isle.com 

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