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Island Lore
Tasked with yet another Barrilito run, I am off to the Green Store in my
shiny rental. Commencing at Los Bohios, I drive
the dirt road leading to 996 into Esperanza. The inconsistency in road width
is a constant challenge and reminder that Vieques is still somewhat rustic,
yet tourists and locals respect the right of way for horses, most motorized
vehicles and anything else resembling confrontation.
As the "Reggaeton 94"
station blares in my car, I suddenly find myself in Esperanza. Head
beating to the musicmy thoughts and eyes are riveted on the Maleon and
just beyond to the gentle and always inviting coral colored Caribbean.
Taking for granted my mode of transportation, I find myself slowing down in
front of La Nasa where several local and familiar patrons wave. Slowing to
a full stop directly in front of La Nasa, a gentleman, by the name of
Corrado, approaches the open passenger window asking for a lift to Isabel.
Of course, I am thrilled to obligeyet another opportunity to soak-up an
insiders reality into Vieques culture and historynot to mention an
unanticipated journey to another local historic gem.
Repeatedly offering me his Medalla, Corrado speaks mostly Spanish. Donning
his Yankees cap, I offer my opinion on the small market baseball team I have
come to follow The Oakland As. We proceed to compare players on the
Gigantes, As and, of course, the Yankees. At 72 years young, Corrado does
not appear to be any older than 50! Never having been off the island, he
passionately speaks of his parents, children and the simple life he lives.
No interest in moving or even travelingIm moved by his loyalty for this
special island.
Winding up and over the island, the Atlantic suddenly comes into view.
Corrado still takes the time to admire the beauty of the island. Imagine,
after 72 years on the island, he still takes the time to pause and breathe
in the fragrant air and admire the majestic view. He quickly has me take a
right and head through a small neighborhood in Destino where he waves at
friends and introduces me to new views of the Caribbean.
Approaching Isabel, I navigate through light traffic and construction work,
ending up parked in front of our final destination Bar Plaza. It feels
odd, having been by this old-time structure a number of times, just off the
square, surveying its large doors and inviting music - yet never allowing
myself to cross its threshold. Just like that, my new found friend, Corrado,
smiling and laughing, literally pulls me out of my rental while greeting his
friends and introducing me as his Oakland As buddy. Straight away, someone
hands me a Cuba Libra and I find myself in a Spanish-English-pseudo sign
language conversation about Puerto Rican baseball. At one point, we even
threaten to get out there and play a five-inning scrimmage. I take in as
many details as possible while shooting pool, listening to music, and learn
about the historic photographs behind the bar. Upon reflection, it is truly
remarkable how one can indiscriminately gain insight into a foreign
cultureof course, the Cuba Libra's assist in this
immersion process. I find myself among friends. I am no more a tourista in
this band of gentlemen. Just a neighbor who has assisted in rejoining a
brother to his rightful family home. I find myself being rewarded for this
over and over again by my newly found friends who extend numerous
invitations to meet family, friends, play in local baseball games, and meet
at the cockfights. They urge me to let others know that their island is an
oasis, a departure from the harsh realities of modernization. No Starbucks,
no traffic lights, no tall structures filled with working commuters just
simple living with a devotion to family, and the warm waters surrounding
them.
I embrace the moment reflecting on my life back home in California. Can one
actually live without Starbucks? Can one live in harmony with their
neighbors? More importantly, does one even know their neighbors? Are we not
all brothers? I suggest Vieques is such a place where everyone can co-exist
in peaceful harmony, yes, even without Starbucks! If you need proof of this,
just one visit to Bar Plaza will convince you. Look for the tan ageless
fellow with the Yankees cap and offer him a Cuba Libra.
He will make you a believer!
Toast y salud!
Dorian
